Szatmár-Bereg Plain Landscape Protection Area

Szatmár-Bereg Plain Landscape Protection Area was established by the National Environment-and Nature Protection Office in 1982 operating as the top organization of nature protection of that time. (4/1982. XI.20. OKTH provision; Magyar Közlöny 1982. 70.). The aim of preservation is "... to protect and maintain the protected plant and animal species, natural plant communities, the specific scenic characteristic features, the landforms, surface waters, grasses and other agricultural areas, forests, alleys determine the external character of the landscape in the region of the land protected area". Among all the regions of the Great Plain of Hungary Szatmár and Bereg are the ones that mainly preserved the former character of the land. The most natural, scenic and cultural historical values can be found in this area. Together with some co-institutions the aim of nature protection is to preserve these values and salvage from the past and present to the future.

The Landscape Protected Area is situated in the outskirts of 37 settlements. Its area is 22.246 hectare of which 2.307 hectare is protected to a greater extent. The measure of the protected area is nearly equally distributed between Szatmár- and Bereg-plain. The Landscape Protected Area is mosaic structured. The certain spots contain the most precious parts but not connected to each other locally. According to the original plans the area of the LPA would almost have been twice as large as the present one but unfortunately the former trade policy did not make it possible. The arrangements of enlarging the protected area started in 1999, so further 25.000 hectare of the area would get the deserved and strongly justified protection.

In the present protected area the percentage distribution by the use of the land is the following.

Fieldlands: 31%; grasses: 35%; forests: 24%; partitioned: (marshlands, streams, drains, ditches, farms, roads, borrow areas, etc.): 9% - the remaining 1% are vine-lands, gardens, orchards, reeds and fish-ponds.24% of the protected area (about 5100 hectare) is state property, the remaining part is co-operative and private property. The trustees possessing the largest area of the territory owned by the Hungarian State are. Nyírerdő joint stock company - 2900 hectare; Upper-Tisza Water Conservancy -1066 hectare; Hortobágy National Park Management - 751 hectare.

The nature protection trustee of the LPA is the Hortobágy National Park Management. Besides the leader of the landscape protected area there are two reservation guards protecting and taking care of the area. The vocational guidance of this activity is done by the inspectors of the national park in close co-operation with the most famous research institutions of the country. The centre of Szatmár-Bereg Landscape Protected area is situated in Fehérgyarmat in the same building as the constant exhibition can be seen on the values of the LPA.

In the territory of the Landscape Protected Area the main nature protective activities are the following besides the above mentioned one. The Management is trying to inactivate the effects of ground water decrease afflict unfavourably the peat moss marshes of Bereg by installing water gained from confined water wells. The process of natural succession also endangers the existence of these marshes. Selfforestation is prevented by the continuous and humane cutting-out of shrubs and trees, the existence of the marshy microclimate is contributed by the plantation of protective forests. The dying old trees of the wooded grazing lands are replaced with young ones. The constant scientific research serve for following the state of the protected areas, better understanding of the phenomena of nature and exploring the past events. These are partly co-ordinated, helped and financed by the Management. The experience gained since the existence of nature protection show that in many instances the most efficient protection can be practised by taking possession of the trustee rights. Accordingly the most important nature protected areas are being bought up by the Management for the Hungarian State. Forest preserves are marked out in the most beautiful and valuable parts of the hornbeam groves-oak forests (Déda-forest, Bockerek-forest) by the Nature Protection Office of the Environment Protection Ministry. The Hortobágy National Park Management is in touch with the owners and trustees of the protected areas, inspecting the activities relating the interest of nature protection. 

Szatmár-plain and Bereg-plain small landscapes belong to the Great Hungarian Plain large landscape, within this they belong to the Upper-Tisza-territory middle landscape. Szatmár-Bereg-plain is the part of a so-called boundary subsidence surrounded from the north and the east by the early tertiary Carpathian, Sub-Carpathian volcanic ring. From the south by the hill-country of Szilágyság and the Variscan faulted-mountains block of Bükk and from the west and south-west by the mainly Pleistocene alluvial cone of Nyírség. The eastern part of the alluvial cone built by the rivers running from the Carpathians falls down on the borderline of Pleistocene and Holocene along the fault line appropriate to the present boundary of Nyírség. The slow process of subsiding is still going on. In the subsided area a new part of stream erosion has started which transformed and covered with younger casting deposit the surface of the former alluvial cone. The largest part of the area is overlaid with perfectly smooth clay castings that were created by the relocation and transformation of the loessal deposit brought down from the surrounding hill-countries and highlands. Loessal sandy deposit from the late glacial epoch stayed on the surface only at some points of Bereg-plain near Csaroda. The oldest formations of Szatmár-Bereg-plain-and significant scenic values-are the tiny island-like "ruined volcanoes" formed in the early tertiary (Pliocene). Two of them can be found in the territory within Hungary. The first is Kaszony-mountain consists of mainly rhyolite rock situated close to Barabás village (its highest point which can be found on the other side of the frontier is 221 m creates a separate territorial unit named Kaszony-mountain Nature Protected Area later discussed in another chapter). The other is the Big Mountain of Tarpa consists of dacite fundamental rock (its highest point is 156 m and is the part of the Landscape Protected Area). Both are overlaid with a changing wide (1-4) loess cover.

The height above sea level of the lowlands alters between 106 and 124 m. The soil of Szatmár-Bereg-plain was formed mainly on recent Holocene river castings, the parent material is mostly casting mud and clay. Because of this and the climate the soil of the area mainly belongs to the alluvial meadow soil and meadow soil main types, in the territory of Ecsed-marsh boggy soil can also be found.

Most of the waters of Szatmár-Bereg-plain come mainly from eastern, southern-eastern direction from the boundary mountains beyond the frontier. Its main river is Tisza. Its level character alters significantly at Tiszabecs-Tivadar reach. The pebbled bedded river (epipotamon = barbel level) with many distributaries, reef and rapids becomes a bending flatland river up to Tiszabecs (metapotamon = bream level). Since the regulations started the fall of the river has increased remarkably because of the bed shortening, so its bed is becoming deeper and deeper (at Tivadar it is 2 m at present). The left riverside tributary of Tisza is Túr running in a dug bed from the point it crosses the frontier but from the substrate near Sonkád it is running in the old bed. Its name is Old-Túr (officially named: Túr-inland waters-main channel). Szamos river has been shortened even more, there is hardly any natural bends left. Kraszna river used to be the main source of the water of Ecsed-marsh which was directed into an artificial channel-like bed and directly conducted into Tisza (formerly it used to flow into Szamos).Szatmár-Bereg-plain used to be overlapped up and down with smaller streams (Batár, Gőgő, Tapolnok, Palád, Szenke, Csomota, Csaronda, Szipa). These became inland water collecting drains by now. As a result of the natural course of development of Tisza riverbed (meandering) and the regulations lots of mortlakes and dead-beds have been developed. They are merely situated in flood plains but many of them got outside the dams. Most of the marshes in this area-and also some bogs-were formed from these dead-beds by the natural succession. Unfortunately only the name and the fame of Ecsed-marsh have lived on, the marsh has almost disappeared without leaving a trace behind as a consequence of "water-regulations".

The climate of Szatmár-Bereg-plain is transitional, semihumid-semiarid, and continental. The climate is highly influenced by the neighbourhood of the Carpathians; it is colder and moister than that of the Great Hungarian Plain. The mean temperature in June is 24 oC and in January -3oC. The annual rainfall is higher than the average of the Great Hungarian Plain, usually exceeds 600 mm and even 700 mm at Tiszabecs. Both the annual rainfall and temperature is continental. The number of sunny hours is under 2000 per year. The continental character is dominant in the direction of wind of the area, but the effect of the air masses rushing in from the north northern-east through the Carpathians is also influential.

The area of Szatmár-Bereg Landscape Protected Area belongs to the floral province of the Great Plain of Hungary (Eupannonicum), Within this to the floral district of the Northern- Great Plain (Samicum) which involves Szatmár-Bereg-plain, Rétköz and Bodrogköz. This floral district extends beyond the frontier and it is especially valuable because its plant communities contain a great number of East-Carpathian floristic elements. The vascular flora of Szatmár-Bereg-plain is extremely rich is extremely rich in the Great Plain relation, more than the half of the plant species of Hungary can be found here (together with the species of Kaszony-mountain). It is extraordinary knowing the fact that Szatmár-Bereg-plain is only 2% (1700 km2) of the area of Hungary. The Northern-Alföld floral district is a real, climate zonal forest area. Most likely the last natural scenery of the area was a closed wooded marshland which had dominant hornbeam groves-oak woods rich in beech-woods-and as a scattered species of tree in beech tree in some places, too-and in hardwooded gallery forests. A significant area was taken up by softwooded groves, marshes, willow-, alder- and blanketbogs. Since the presence of humans the cutting out and preparation of the originally completely unbroken forests have started and the extensive animal keeping, rotational grazing and meadow farming have appeared at the same time. This process was strengthened by the regulation of riverways, inland drainage and the draining operations. In Szatmár-Bereg-plain the number of forests has decreased under 10% by now, the percentage of fieldlands is about 72%, the meadows and grazing lands are about 10% of the area.

As already mentioned the most typical plant community of Szatmár-Bereg-plain is hornbeam groves-oakwoods of Alföld (Querco robori-Carpinetum). As its Latin name also shows the standforming species of tree are Pedunculate Oak and European Hornbeam. Its characteristic "scattered trees" are Bird Cherry, Hungarian Narrow-leaved Ash, Field Maple, Smooth-leaved Elmand the unique Common Beech (in Déda-forest). In its straggling shrub-layer there is mainly Red Dogwood, Midland Hawthorn (Crataegus oxyacantha), European Spindle and Tatarian Maplewhich rarely grows as large as a tree. Its herb layer is merely well-grown in the early springtime, the main plants are Wood Anemone and Yellow Anemone, Bulbous Corydalis, Common Lungwort,Spring Vetch and Isopyrum. We can often find Asarabacca, Coralroot Bittercress, Sweet Woodruff, Solomon's-seal species (Polygonatum spp.) and Snowdrop, and rarely Ophioglossum vulgatum, Herb-Paris and herb the Baneberry. The ornaments of these forests living only in this area of the Great Hungarian Plain are Spring Snowflake, Crocus heuffelianus, Gladiolus, Scilla kladnii and Belgian Gagea growing only in Szatmár-Bereg-plain, mentioning only the most important ones. Hornbeam groves-oak woods of the area are highly distinguished from the point of view of nature protection because this plant community of Alföld could only live on in this relatively large area and in a slightly degraded state. The nicest representatives of this habitat type are Bockerek-forest, Déda-forest, Téb-forest in Bereg and Cserköz-forest, Kömörő-forest in Szatmár.

In the deeper dead water parts of hornbeam groves-oak woods alder-fenwoods (Carici elongatae-Alnetum) hide, its standforming species is mainly Common Alder but we can find Hungarian Narrow-leaved Ash, Grey Willow and Bay Willow as well at some places. Because of the repeated sprouting at the foot of the "supported rooted" alder trees three fern species can be found: Lady-fern Lady Fern, Narrow Buckler Fern and Marsh Fern. We can come across Water-violet and Kiev Nettle in the water among the trees. The above mentioned types can be observed in the alder-woods of Borzova-forest or in the "Deep-Alder" part of Lónya-forest.

The hornbeam groves-oak woods are replaced with hardwooded groves (oak-ash-elm groves: Fraxino pannonicae-Ulmetum) in the deeper parts rather close to rivers but in many instances we can meet different intermediate positions between the two assossiations. Its collection of species is very similar to the one of the hornbeam groves-oak woods. The standforming species of trees are Pedunculate Oak, Hungarian Narrow-leaved Ash. Its scattered trees are Fluttery Elm andSmooth-leaved Elm, Field Maple, White Poplar and also Common Alder in some places. Its shrub layer is well-grown, mostly formed of Red Dogwood, Guelder Rose, Midland Hawthorn (Crataegus leavigata) and Alder Buckthorn. The herb layer is generally rich, its main species are Ground-elder, Touch-me-not, Lily of the Valley and the early spring geophytes : Yellow Anemone andWood Anemone, Lesser Celandine, Bulbous Corydalis and Yellow Star of Bethlehem. Ramsons can also be found in maybe the most beautiful hardwooded gallery forest of Hungary in Bagiszeg-forest. The stands of the associations are situated mainly outside the dams of the rivers, on the so called "saved side".

The softwooded gallery forests (Salicetum albae-fragilis) can be found in the active flood plain of the rivers. Its typical trees are White Willow, Crack Willow and White Poplar and Black Poplar. These forests are replaced with improved poplar plantations but next to Tisza and Szamos rivers some more or less degraded stands still can be found, such as Szabó-willow grove at Tiszabecs and the "Dragongarden" hiding between Tisza and Szamos. In its shrub layer Dewberry forms a dense impenetrable brushwood together with many adventitious plant species like: Echinocystis lobatus and Riverbank Grape. Its herb layer is not so rich; its typical plant is Summer Snowflakeand Chrysanthemum serotinum. Brought here from the Carpathians the Large Yellow Ox-eye,Alternate-leaved Golden Saxifrage, Butterbur and two adventitious plants Policeman's Helmet and Heracleum sosnowskyi settled down In Tiszabecs active flood plain.

Though continually lessening the grazing lands and hay fields still represent a significant territory in the Landscape Protected Area. They were mainly developed by cutting out the hornbeam groves-oak woods and they saved many of the plants of the woodless grassy places and fringes of the forests. These grasses are the memories of a traditional economic model. The wooded grazing lands with their scenic and botanical values are worth mentioning such as Rókás, Lónya-wooded grazing land or Erethegy-grazing land. Some robust old trees mostly Pedunculate Oakand Wild Pear have been left or later planted after the deforestation of these places. These so called bearing trees served as cool shade for both men and animals. The plans of grasses areMeadow Foxtail, Meadow Fescue and False Sheep's Fescue but there is Beckmannia eruciformis signing salinization in some places. Important plant species of these habitats are Marsh Gentian,Great Burnet, Blue Clematis, Aster sedifolius, Snakeshead Lily. Some rare types are Lax-flowered Orchid, Green-winged Orchid and Siberian Iris. The common Meadow Saffron creates a lilac carpet in autumn. It is surprising to find Hog's Fennel in this area as it is the specific plant of alkali wooded steppe but as a protected plant it is worth mentioning.

Eriophoro vaginati-Sphagnetum recurvi have the greatest botanical value. Unfortunately only two out of the five such marshes discovered by the botanists in this century lived on in a relatively good state: Bábtava and Nyíres-lake. They are the most precious treasures of the Landscape Protected Area, probably there used to be more in the old days. Bence-lake, Zsid-lake and Navad have become significantly degraded by now both because of human activities and also as a result of the past long and dry period. Botanists keep these marshes as a relic of the Ice Age. Their survival can be thanked to the climate of Szatmár-Bereg-plain and the specific microclimate caused by the surrounding forests. Similar associations can only be found in the North-Medium height mountain range in Hungary and in the Carpathians closest to our frontiers. The marshes in this area are remarkable of their development in dead channels of rivers (Tisza). The inner emerging marshy island is completely structured by living (5-10 cm surface layer) and dead peat moss (the peat layer can be 2m as well). This "island" is surrounded by boggy and marshy associations (alder- and willow marsh, high-sedge, gliceria). The "basement" of the blanket bog is created by clump-fen window system that is made of peat moss (main species: Sphagnum palustre, S. magellanicum, S. recurvum). The Eriophorum vaginatum lives in the clumps; it is the constant and dominant species of blanket bogs while the main plant of fen window is Bogbean. The boreal spreading Bog Orchid can only be found here in Hungary. Two out of the three national localities of Cranberry is in Bereg. A characteristic constant plant species of marshes isMarsh Fern, as well as Marsh Cinquefoil, Milk-parsley and Cowbane. Only in peat moss-marshes can be found round-leaved Common Sundew having a special style of living. Making up its nitrogen need it entraps smaller insects. There are White Birch, Silver Birch and Aspen in the rare small crown level and Eared Willow, Grey Willow and Alder Buckthorn in the straggling shrub layer. Another famous tree species of marshes is Bay Willow which can only be met with in the marshes of Szatmár-Bereg-plain and Nyírség in the area of Hungary.

Beautifully rich and diversified marshy and reed-grass vegetation can be found in the dead beds formed by the bed cut-off and the natural development of riverbeds and that of the smaller streams. The most widespread associations are Ceratophyllum spp., Myriophyllum spp., Utricularia spp. But huge stands of White Water-lily, Yellow Water Lily and Water Chestnut live in some places. Colouring the previously mentioned stands sometimes Water Soldier forms a dense impenetrable carpet on the surface of the water-it was not accidentally named as "dog-cutter sedge" by the people. Rootless Duckweed is the smallest flowering plant of Europe. It rarely occurs in these waters. In some dead beds sudd-like formations can be seen on the bulrush pieces torn off the edge of Lesser Bulrush and Common Bulrush. Classical development forms of the last mentioned one were the most specific plant associations of Ecsed-marsh. The Upper-Tisza and perhaps the most beautiful dead channel of the river's Hungarian part is "Boroszló-Garden-Dead-Tisza" next to Gulács. A lot of the marshes were formed as dead channels; their frequent type is Glycerietum maximae. Besides the dominant Great-sweet-grass there are Yellow Iris, Branched Bur-reed and Common Water Plantain in variable amount and frequency. Its banks are generally bordered by Grey Willow. One can often meet the plants and associations mentioned above along the banks of the slowly running smaller streams-such as Old-Túr-accompanied by Common Alder trees in many places. A smaller stand of Sweet Flag-originated in Asia-lives on the bank of Csaroda-brook near Csaroda which used to be used as a medical herb.

Similarly to plants the fauna is colourful and rich. Their characteristic is the mixture of fauna elements from the lowlands and highlands. It may occur because of the neighbourhood of the Carpathians, the cold and wet microclimate of its forests and marshes and its relatively peaceful habitats.

Two out of the three habitats of Helicigonia banatica are in this area, it lives in the forests of the active flood plain of Tisza. The following species are known as highland types: Perforatella bidentata, Crystal Snail, Ash-black Slug and Carpathian Violet Snail. Theodoxus transversalis andRiver Limpet are rare and precious members of the snouted water-snail fauna of Upper-Tisza territory.

Upper-Tisza is outstanding among the rivers in Hungary with its insect fauna. Oligoneuriella polonica, Choroterpes picteti and Baetis gracilis trout-fly species occur only here in Hungary.Long-tailed Mayfly is also common in this part of the river. Stone Flies live generally in the streams of highlands and hill-countries but there are some species of them, which do not live anywhere else in the country e.g. Stone Fly and Taeniopteryx schoenemundi. Stactobiella risi is a rare and precious phryganea type of the river; it lives only here and in Szigetköz. All the four species of the Gomphidae occurs here, there are hardly any examples of it among the Hungarian streams. The main species of the smaller streams are Scarce Libellula and Brilliant Emerald. The kindred race of the second one is Somatochlora flavomaculata that lives in the low stages of marshy areas. Norfolk Aeschna, Epitheca bimaculata and Leucorrhinia caudalis live in the dead beds of Tisza. Where the stand of water-soldier is continuous Aeschna viridis almost surely occurs. It lays its eggs only on the leaf of this plant. Leucorrhinia pectoralis is a rare and precious species of marshy waters. Southern Aeschna lives in the highlands and multiplies in the alder-marsh of Nyíres-lake.

There are a great many rarities among continental insects. Among the inhabitants of the fresh highland meadows Polysarcus denticauda, Chrysochraon dispar, Odontopodisma schmidti are acclimatized here. The last of them can also be found in Bátorliget in Hungary. A lot of xylophage-or "tree spoiling" in its nickname-beetles find the condition of existence in the old natural forests. Stag Beetle, Great Capricorn Beetle, Rhinoceros Beetle and Rose Beetle are often present. Osmoderma eremita lives in the moulding old willow-groves. Carabus hampei is the most significant carbid beetle species of the area. The large size Carabus clathratus lives in the marshes and the highland spreading Cychrus rostratus is an inhabitant of the cold microclimate hornbeam groves-oak woods. Purple Emperor and Hungarian Glider live only here in the Great Plain. One subspecies of Scarce Fritillary lives here. Its distribution is the western boundary of Transylvania, Nyírség and Szatmár-Bereg-plain. Golden Swift and the very rare Lamellocossus terebrus can only be found in Bereg. Apamea tallosi owlet-moth species was defined in Hungary. Its habitats are the wet lands like that of Lamprotes c-aureum and Gortyna borellii ssp. lunata which develops in the root of common Hog's Fennel.

This landscape has plenty of streams and lakes used to be rich in fish. It is unfortunately a thing of the past by now. Huchen and Grayling are perhaps the most precious fish species of the area; both belong to trout family. They live in Tisza at the rapid current barbel level. In the same river but in the slower Zingel and Streber can be found together with Stripped Ruffe and Barbus meridionalis petényi. European Mudminnow and Mud Loach are the habitants of marshes. Both became very rare because of the decrease of their habitats.

Amphibia are represented with great species- and specimen number but the reptile fauna of Szatmár-Bereg-plain is more interesting. Adder lives in hornbeam groves-oak woods (Bockerek-forest, Lónya-forest, Déda-forest), its foretype (Vipera berus berus) occurs here. Aesculapian Snake can also be found in this place. The inhabitant of marshes is Viviparous Lizard and rarely we can meet the specimens of Green Lizard in the "Big Mountain of Tarpa". It is natural that in this area rich in waters European Pond Terrapin is also present.

The avifauna is rich and diversified, as everything in this beautiful land. The habitats of Sand Martin and Bee-eater can be observed in many places on the steep wall of the failures of Tisza.Kingfisher is often seen here. Huge, mixed heronries are formed by heron Grey Heron, Night Heron and Little Egret in the gallery forests along the rivers. These forests are the main habitats of Olivaceous Warbler and Thrush Nightingale but Black Kite also hatches here. There are large, still undisturbed old forests in Szatmár-Bereg-plain where Black Stork, Lesser Spotted Eagle,Honey Buzzard, Black Woodpecker and Raven can find the condition for nesting. Roller, Hobby Falcon, Grey-headed Woodpecker and in some years Short-eared Owl are the main nesting birds of the groves e.g. the wooded groves. The second best set up Corncracke stand of the country lives here and its Quail populations are also notable. The largest and most beautiful owl species of Hungary is Eagle Owl. It hatches in this area though in a small number. Its kin is Barn Owlwhich builds its nest almost only in the bell tower of churches. One of the nicest birds of the Hungarian nation is White Stork which also lives near the settlements of the people.

Among mammals Pine Marten and Otter are worth mentioning. Wildcat and Eurasian Badger are not rare in bigger forests. In severe winters a few Wolves Volf wander about here from the mountains but unfortunately most of them pay a high price for their boldness. The biggest mammal species of the forest is Red Deer often found in the area. Fallow Deer colonized in Bockerek-forest is not wanted here from the point of view of nature conservation. The regular game of the area is Roe Deer, Wild Boar and common Red Fox. Crowded bat colonies live in the bell towers of the churches in the villages and Beech Marten is also frequent here.

Historical relics of human culture can be found in Szatmár-Bereg from the earlier Paleolithic Age through Neolithic-, Copper- and Bronze Age to the Roman Age and the time of the Hungarian settlement. More than 20 churches came down to us from the Middle Ages. Their stylistical characteristics cover many styles from the Roman to the late Gothic style. The belfries of the region having Transylvanian effect are dated from the earlier times. One of the most famous graveyards of the country is the one of Szatmárcseke where strange-shaped so-called wooden grave posts guard the rest of the dead and bring the visitors to muse.

The increasingly lessening so called "jungle orchards" cherish the memory of a traditional economic system forming mixed standed forests together with the native tree species in the flood area of the rivers. Many of the ancient fruit types can be found in their remains, the different types of plums are of high priority. It was used for desiccation, jam preserving and distillation of brandy. These are the main activities of Alföld carried out on the highest level. In the huge vineyards of the downs of the "Big-Mountain of Tarpa" and Kaszony mountain wine was produced competing with Tokaj region in their quality. There are two industrial historical art relics in this area connected to agriculture. One is the watermill in Túristvándi; the other is the horse-driven mill of Tarpa. Both can be seen in a working and good state.

A lot of prominent people were born here or had unforgettable experiences of this land. Here lies Ferenc Kölcsey who was also born in this place. The works of Sándor Petőfi and Lőrinc Szabó based on the experiences gained here are also famous. Among others Ottó Herman and Zsigmond Móricz were well-known notabilities of this land. Zsigmond Móric's house is still standing in Tiszacsécse. Endre Ady studied, Dezső Szabó was a teacher in the schools of nearby towns.